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January , Afghanistan. Sar Shahee camp. Photo: Phillip Robertson. It was clear that some serious money was changing hands and this wasn't even the drug trade; this was simply the usual smuggled goods moving into Pakistan from China and Russia, the drivers evading customs duties. Jalalabad and Peshawar, were married to each other through the cash and the merchandise, which has been the situation for centuries, and so they thrived.
It's the silk road with Russian trucks and Toyotas, and this gives Torkham a rough feel to it, like a port city.
It is also a major route for raw opium from the fields in Afghanistan to heroin refineries in the Pakistani tribal areas. Manzoor, the malarial fixer, wandered away with the driver and the security guard, leaving me standing before the barrier. Before I crossed the frontier, I asked him about the road to Jalalabad, and how dangerous it was, because in the Pearl Continental Hotel, a National Geographic photographer said that the road was certain death, especially for someone making the trip alone.
The night before, I'd gone up to the fifth-floor lounge of the hotel looking to bum a ride in a convoy, but had no luck. Manzoor was now telling me that I could take a cab to Jalalabad from Torkham, no problem. It was a shock to discover that there was regular cab service, but it's true. My colleague with the fright speech had no information at all. A man puts down his gun, the border gate goes up, and I walk over to the customs hut run by Hajji Kadir's men. After greeting everyone, a man introduces himself in English, enters the number of my passport in a stained ledger and says, "My name is Aman Khan, and I'm a translator.